By Gwen Morgan, Second Year, Biochemistry
The world of fashion and textiles has always been shaped by scientific and technological advancements. Transforming fabrics from basic natural fibres to sophisticated, high performance materials. Modern fabrics do more than just look and feel good; scientists are now designing fabrics that heal themselves, regulate temperature, and even generate electricity. What started as a means of protection and necessity has expanded into a field that harnesses chemistry, engineering and sustainability as a medium for both self-expression and practicality.
With that in mind, lets journey through time, looking at the scientific breakthroughs that have shaped fashion, and some exciting and unexpected innovations that could define its future.
For centuries, textiles were valued for their durability and function. Warriors relied on chainmail armour for protection, while natural fibres such as wool, linen, and leather were the backbone of everyday clothing, prized for their insulation and availability. Natural dyes from plants, insects, and minerals were used to add colour to fabrics, and mordants (substances like alum or iron salts) were introduced to improve dye retention, allowing pigment molecules to bond more effectively with fibres.
Fast forward to the nineteenth century, where developments in chemistry revolutionised fashion. In 1856 William Perkin accidentally discovered the vibrant purple mauvine while attempting to synthesise the anti-malarial drug quinine. Previously, this colour was only available to the elite in the form of Tyrian - a dye formed from the shells of murex sea snails. This accidental realisation turned fashion sensation helped establish the modern chemical dye industry, pushing the boundaries of organic chemistry beyond its conventional uses.
The twentieth century brought the rise of synthetic fibres like nylon, polyester and, spandex. These materials were stronger, with more flexibility and, resistance to moisture than traditional fabrics. It is no surprise that they soon began to dominate the industry. For example, Nylon was initially created to replace silk stockings, but soon found its way into sportswear, backpacks and, even parachutes.
Of course, not all innovation was harmless, some came at a deadly cost. Many of history's most popular dyes, like Scheele's Green and Paris Green, contained arsenic and were used to colour everything from dresses to wallpaper. Their toxicity led to rashes, respiratory issues and even fatal poisoning. Mercury, once essential in hat making, led to such severe neurological damage in hat makers that it inspired the phrase "mad as a hatter" as demonstrated in Lewis Carroll's 'Alice's adventures in Wonderland'. The next time you're feeling a bit out of the ordinary, it may be worth checking your hat's production date! Ironically the yellow dye, picric acid, was used in military uniforms in the late nineteenth century and was both toxic and explosive – not ideal considering the environment. Even Perkin's mauvine, like many other aniline dyes, was carcinogenic before purification. Whether they knew it or not, designers and fashionistas alike were risking their lives for style.
Past fashion hazards were more visible in local production, where a sense of connection and community provided some protection for workers. Today, in a globalized economy, the deadly consequences of fashion are often hidden, but they remain just as real. The question remains: how much are we willing to sacrifice for beauty?
While early innovations often had unintended consequences, modern science is shifting towards safer and more sustainable solutions, driven by the harmful environmental impacts of traditional textile production. Biomimicry -learning from nature for more intuitive solutions- offers a way forward, giving nature a chance to reclaim its place in the modern world and fight for its own future. For example, squid ink, used in Mediterranean and Japanese cuisines, is being explored in a different light as a sustainable dye. Researchers are also studying slightly unexpected, slightly off-putting bacteria-based dyes, which are biodegradable and produce fewer harmful by-products.
Research into self-healing fabrics promises a futuristic twist to our wardrobes. Researchers are studying proteins found in squid ring teeth, which possess self-repairing properties, to fix those small but oh-so-irritating holes in your brand-new pair of socks. Environmentally (and financially!) this has the potential revolutionise the lifespan of garments, reducing waste (and how much of your student loan is lost to underwear) and mitigating the environmental impact of fast fashion. Other materials use liquid polymer capsules that break open to fix damage when exposed to heat or pressure.
Beyond self-repairing fabrics, technology is weaving intelligence into our textiles. These materials integrate electronic components directly into the fabric, allowing for the creation of interactive and functional clothing. For example, temperature regulating textiles utilise phase change materials (PCMs) to store and release heat, ensuring comfort without the need for bulky layers. Conductive fabrics, engineered with graphene or metallic nanowires, could merge fashion and electronics. This has the potential to impact all aspects of life as we know it, from day-to-day convenience to the accessible and comfortable installation of medical devices.
In the rise of artificial intelligence and biotechnology, we can expect to see an evolution in textiles beyond previous limitations. The future of fashion promises to redefine both aesthetics and functionality, pushing the industry in a new direction where fashion is not just a statement of style, but also one of sustainability and responsibility.
Featured image: Eleanor Barnes
If you found this interesting, there's an exhibition on at the London Design Museum called 'Tomorrow's Wardrobe' that similarly explores how scientific innovation can improve fashion's future.
