By Kate Gaskill, First Year, BA Modern Languages (German and Ab Initio Italian)
Located in the unpromising culinary backwater of Bedminster, Bombil’s façade might be described as majestic, not least in contrast to the gaudy lights of ‘Nail Century’, ‘Star Barbers’ and the toxic green glow of the Bedminster Asda.
We’re greeted warmly by the proprietor, Boomi, who in the space of five minutes has us seated with drinks in hand. When you come, as I recommend you will, do not pass on the wide range of cocktails. Ours were delicious – not too sweet and certainly not weak.
They’ve got a small plates thing going on (who doesn’t these days) alongside all your classic curries. Any day you like, I’d swap a run-of-the-mill poppadum daubed with anonymous mango sludge for the picture-perfect samosa chaat or sizzling lamb kebabs that are properly charred and gorgeously juicy. The accompanying green sauce, bright with herbs and piquant with spice, is a perfect foil for the richness of the meat. Great, keep them coming.
As we feast away, the friendly waitresses attend unobtrusively to our drink and cutlery needs. Speaking as a slipshod former Franco Manca waitress, I can attest to their professionalism. Boomi, meanwhile, is doing a bit of everything: receiving Deliveroo drivers, mixing drinks, even candling up a wedge of cake for a celebrating couple.
My companion and I chat over the good food in this happy setting, feeling this is everything a restaurant experience should be. A curry should never be a solitary dinner: it’s meant to be shared, appreciated and enjoyed with others. Bombil is just right for that.
Two beautifully presented main dishes were laid before us: a light amber Goan prawn curry with fried curry leaves, and a lamb railway curry with parsley and red peppers in amongst the rich gravy and chunks of tender meat. The rice did what was required, but I’d expected more from the tandoori roti: it somehow didn’t taste quite fresh. I'd have the naan next time.
After asking for takeaway boxes, we soldiered on to dessert. The pistachio kulfi had a delicate nutty taste without that artificial almond tang afflicting ubiquitous Dubai-style desserts. It managed to be slightly chewy and rich, but still light. The chocolate mousse cake was pleasant enough, adorned with vanilla kulfi and hints of rose.
Kate Gaskill
Having spent almost three hours in Bombil – not due to slow service, I hasten to add – I can state confidently and wholeheartedly that whenever you fancy a curry this is the place to go. And if you don’t fancy a curry, come anyway for the small plates and cocktails. It might be a long way from Mumbai to Bedminster, but Bombil bridges the two and gets the best out of both.
Featured Image: Epigram / Kate Gaskill
