By Virginia Campbell, Food Editor
The title of 'dessert bar' is one that has surprisingly never held too much attraction for me. I picture garish colours, mass-produced puddings of stodge and one-dimensional sweetness. In short, a Route 66 to dissatisfying overindulgence.
Ever the optimist however, I found myself rolling down Park Street and in through the doors of Bristol’s newest and brightest sugar-based enterprise. To the immense satisfaction of my expectations and indeed my tastebuds, this joint held a more holistic sweetness than the one-track road previously mentioned.
Treated to a ‘stuffed’ banana waffle with vanilla ice-cream, and an equally ‘stuffed’ apple waffle with salted caramel ice-cream, I initially bulked at the size of the portions; ‘generous’ would not cut the descriptive mustard. Considering the price however (£7.50), such a portion was only good value for money. The waffles themselves were incredibly light and fluffy, and a had a pleasant balance of sweetness. I was particularly fond of the fruity additions, which added variation - and alleviated the guilt somewhat of the indulgence, for indulgence was what it was.
The ice-cream atop the towering beasts however, was the real crowning glory. Made from organic milk and honey produced by the owners of Cowbee themselves, it was beautifully smooth and had an alternative and more developed sweetness than white-sugar ice creams. WIth the favourable providence of the ingredients sorted, the hardest choice is that of choosing which flavour of ice-cream to have.
Indecison will soon be made worse as Cowbee has future plans to extend their menu to incorporate an extensive savoury menu, some dishes of which have already crept onto the brunch menu (see: bacon and cheese waffles with a spicy sauce).
Forward thinking is not only limited to their extending repertoire. In true Bristol spirit, they’ve abandoned the use of single-use plastic and they’ve proudly embraced compostable ice-cream spoons and recyclable take away boxes. They’re also adept at catering for vegans, coeliacs and individuals of various dietary requirements.
Add to this the wonderfully bright decor, with its upscaled chairs, rattan lamp-shades and sunlight (if you can remember such a thing) lit booths, and you’ve got a honeyed experience.
It is no wonder then, that this not-just-waffles eatery has created such a buzz. A trip there is a route along many roads and many flavours, of all which have a satisfying destination.
Photos Courtesy of Cowbee and Virginia Campbell
Have you visited Cowbee? Let us know what you thought of it in the comments below.
